This! Having a rest for your hand helps for steady strokes. 

Magnification could be one you can have on an arm and then move it so you can see the mini and your paintbrush. Me, I like the 'worn on head' version that I look through (which keeps both hands free). 

I had a friend in Uni who was ADD, easily bored, and a bit manic... and struggling for cash. I worked doing landscaping and odd jobs for a few bucks, so I started sending him squads and platoons of 25mms. I kept it up when I started working because he wasn't yet fully on his feet. He probably painted at least 1200 minis for me. I like to paint, but that guy can mow through 40 guys at a pace I cannot imagine (his eyes are getting the 'old man' issue now too...). And back then, I got a 25mm for 0.85 UKP (less if I got squad or platoon packs) and paid about $1.50 CAD (less than 1 UKP then) to paint them (less yet if it was a platoon). It was a mutually beneficial relationship. 

I love to paint, and I like people to paint stuff, but I've seen some folks wanting $10 CAD or more (6 UKP+) per figure and that's a lot when you go to paint a platoon of 30 to 40. 

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 2:22 PM Ethan McKinney <xxxxxx@gmail.com> wrote:
I tend to have tremors when trying to hold a brush perfectly steady, but if I rest the heel of my hand on something and the miniature is steady, I can make a perfect brush stroke! It's easier than holding the brush in one place.

Get an inexpensive magnifier on a clip with a built-in light for extra points. Takes the whole process from painful to comfortable.

E

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 11:13 Timothy Collinson - timothy.collinson at port.ac.uk (via tml list) <xxxxxx@simplelists.com> wrote:


<snip some marvellously helpful advice>

Oh, and remember: There are two options with a paint job you don't like: Repaint (works with thin enough paints without too many layers otherwise detail is lost) or (if it is a white metal figure vs plastic or resin), you can just pop it in a mason jar full of either brake fluid or (if you really want effective and can live with 'must follow Materials Safety Data Sheets because unhealthy contents), you can use full fledged acetone (5% acetone is nail polish remover, 100% is the right gloves and don't splash it around). Acetone will also (with assembled white metal minis) disassemble any epoxy joins... I left a squad of 25mms in acetone for a few weeks and I didn't even find anything I recognized as the paint or the resin residue afterwards... and a rinse with water and the figures were ready to reprime and repaint. Just don't pour acetone down the loo or the sink. It's a hazmat so when you decide you've had enough, dispose. And the container you store it in ought to be glass and have a tight fitting lid without a sealer ring.... I put it in one with a sealer ring and it *ate the sealer ring*. It's strong stuff. Also not sure you want it in your house (garage or maybe shed better). Brake fluid and some scrubbing with a toothbrush on metal figs can take most of paint of without being as hazardous.


wow!  From some odd shaped plastic in the post to hazmat suit and disposal regimes in three easy steps.  I'm impressed!

I suspect what I really need to find is either a) someone willing to paint the things - but I'm fairly certain this would never be affordable, or b) 3D printing that comes in colour.

It also occurs to me that I have some back issues of _Tabletop Gaming_ and they always have five pages of how to paint specific miniatures (for specific games) which I generally skip over...  I'll revisit them for additional advice.

cheers

tc

Virus-free. www.avast.com

-----
The Traveller Mailing List
Archives at http://archives.simplelists.com/tml
Report problems to xxxxxx@simplelists.com
To unsubscribe from this list please go to
http://archives.simplelists.com

-----
The Traveller Mailing List
Archives at http://archives.simplelists.com/tml
Report problems to xxxxxx@simplelists.com
To unsubscribe from this list please go to
http://www.simplelists.com/confirm.php?u=RDHE7iRpfwqlHvVvWBIhpJZsbTiD5NnL